jimmy jeans part 6

after i had my butt revelation and had that problem under reasonable control, it was on to the next (albeit more minor) problems.  in this image from a few slopers ago you can see how the fabric pulls towards my amazing knock knees.
(i'm quite the specimen, aren't i?)

 to account for this the books call for you to shift in the outlines of the pattern towards the knee line.  the green lines are the original pattern lines and the red are the adjusted lines.  i started with just altering them by 1/2 and inch.

low and behold, it's working!  it still pulled slightly, so after i did this fitting i went ahead and pushed the red lines another half inch in towards the inner knee.

and just like that i realized i'll never be able to make a true pair of selvedge edge denim jeans.  if i had to push the knee lines in to compensate for my knock knees they'll never look right if i push them out again to line up with a selvedge edge.  i'll still use the selvedge denim because it's higher quality, but i won't be able to incorporate it into the final jeans, which doesn't bother me that much considering i don't roll my pants up and you'd never see it anyway.

it's a jeans snob thing.

i maybe did a few more minor adjustments here and there, but the main thing i found in looking at the fit on my ass was that at this point, the major thing was how i was standing.  i came to the conclusion that this fit was probably as good as i was going to get.  the fact that there's still some wrinkled fabric below my butt probably has more to do with the fact that i lock my knees when i stand which actually forces a crease in the fabric between my butt and leg and less to do with how the pattern is actually cut.

yes, i did just make a gallery of my ass.

also, it's worth noting that while making the "minor adjustments" the front and back pattern pieces were so similar that i actually was adjusting the front crotch curve when i meant to be adjusting the back crotch curve a couple of times!

 in the end, this is what i came up with.  it's the best fit so far of anything i've ever drafted (let alone any kind of pants i've ever tried on in a store.)  it still has 1" of ease in the hips and 1" of ease in the waist.  i'll take the ease out once i'm test fitting a full mock-up of a pair of jeans.

this is the final pattern so far.  my next step is to go ahead and make a couple full pants slopers.  i was just making shorts because i knew most of my problems and frustrations were related to the crotch area and i didn't want to waist all that fabric.  the brown line is the final version so far, and you can see all the revisions i made along the way.