frustrated, i put the jeans down and spent several days doing A LOT of research. i looked up books about pants making and tracked down a denim supplier.
"making trousers" by david coffin, "pants for real people" by pati palmer, and "easy guide to sewing pants" by lynn macintyre. i was sort of buying blindly, but these 3 aren't bad. "making trousers" is less about the construction of pants than it is details and finishing. it also comes with a dvd (which i have yet to watch), but the book is beautiful and offers lots of good suggestions on the finer details.
"pants for real people" and "easy guide to sewing pants" are more concerned with fit--which frankly is my main concern at this point. "pants" has it's own thing going on with fitting tissue paper patterns to the body and modifying them even before cutting into fabric, but there's lots of good tips and tricks to figure out what's wrong and how to fix it.
pacificbluedenims.com which has tons of selvedge and regular denim from the us, japan, italy and more. and their swatches are free! i ordered some swatches and then i ordered a few more. i wanted to go for a heavier weight denim on my new pair, much like the levi's i was used to growing up with.
unfortunately, right after i took this picture i decided to tweak something else, which made something else worse, then tweak, then worse, etc, etc...
the sloper quickly devolved into something that i couldn't wear, and (honestly) i didn't truly understand how i had gotten to this point in the first place.
after being bummed out about it for a little bit i decided that i needed to start from scratch, so, off to the drawing board...